The birthplace of Wessex is actually two character areas in one, with the Upper Thames Clay Vales completely enclosing the Midvale Ridge. The latter is a limestone ridge stretching from Swindon to just outside Aylesbury. It is a mostly rural area, drained by small streams that drain into the rivers Thames, Thame and Ock, though the expansion of Swindon and Oxford threatens this rural character.
Surrounding it are the Oxford Clay Vales, whose impermeable clay soils give rise to flood plains and wetlands, in contrast to the permeable limestone of the Midvale Ridge and the neighbouring Cotswolds. The land is largely unsuitable for crop growing, making it a classic "chalk and cheese" disparity.
It was in the area around Dorchester-on-Thames that the kingdom later known as Wessex began to form. The area boasts one of the densest concentration of Anglo-Saxon archaeological finds in England, and is the subject of an ongoing investigation by a team of archaeologists from the University of Oxford.
There has been an encouraging increase in woodland in the area, however, an invasive population of poplar trees is proving a threat to native tree species.
Climate change threatens an increase in flooding in the clay vales. As with so many other places.it is up to all of us to do our part in preventing this.
Sandwiched in between the Mendip hills, and the heaths and vales of Dorset commonly known as "Hardy country", the Yeovil Scarplands are characterised by steep limestone and sandstone ridges separating a series of clay vales, with the rivers Yeo, Brue and Parrett draining into the Somerset Levels. It is most notable for producing Ham Hill stone, which is used to construct a number of buildings and other structure in the region, including the Hamdon Hill war memorial illustrated above (photo: Jim Champion).
Less than 5% of this National Character Area (NCA) is settled, though Yeovil itself is a fast-growing urban centre, which threatens the character of the surrounding countryside, particularly on the east side of the town. Smaller towns and villages are often connected by sunken lanes known as holloways.
The area is a cider-producing region with many orchards, though their traditional character is somewhat threatened by the introduction of newer varieties of apple tree.
The area also contains East Coker, memorialised by TS Eliot, who is buried there. The East Coker Society is active in preserving the village's heritage, in a way that should be an inspiration to other Wessex communities.
The Thames Valley National Character Area (NCA), should not be confused with the birthplace of Wessex, centred on Dorchester-on-Thames. That falls within the Oxford & Upper Thames NCA, subject of a future post. Rather, it begins on the outskirts of London and extends into Wessex as far as Reading.
Geologically, the area is defined by heavy London clay, sometimes overlaid with sand or gravel. The whole area was once heavily forested, but most of its primeval woodland has now been sacrificed to development. Traces of it survive in the Windsor Great Forest, home to Herne the Hunter in Wessex folklore, a personification of the ancient wild. Even green belt land is more likely to be used for golf courses and pony clubs than nature reserves. Based on CPRE data, less than 1% of the area's land is considered undisturbed, and none of it can be classed as tranquil.
Water is a slightly different matter. As its name suggests, the River Thames dominates the NCA, and provides major opportunities for tranquility and recreation. The motto of the area might be "With the wind in your face, there's no finer place than messing about on the river. Because the land sucks."
The Devon Redlands take their name from the red sandstone that gives the region some dramatic cliffs on the coast and provides it with its distinctive brick-coloured building stone, as at the historic Otterton Mill (illustrated above). Sandwiched in between Exmoor and Dartmoor, the character area centres on the Exe Valley, which separates the southwest peninsula from the rest of Great Britain; and Exeter, once the westernmost limit of Roman Britannia.
Characteristic of the area are linhays, open-fronted livestock shelters built from wood and stone; and whitewashed thatch-and-cob cottages.
The Devon Redlands are largely an area of hamlets and small villages. Larger settlements include Exeter, Exmouth, Tiverton, Torquay and Crediton. The latter was once a diocesan seat in the Anglo-Saxon church, birthplace of St Boniface, but was later supplanted by Exeter.
Species unique to the region include the cirl bunting, southern damselfly, Dartford warbler and warren crocus. Until recently, the latter was thought to be endemic to the area, but a second population has been discovered in Cornwall. Unfortunately for the biodiversity of the area, the heathland at Haldon Ridge has been given over to commercial, single-species conifer plantations. Hopefully it can one day be restored to its natural state.
The West Dorset Vales character area, centred on Bridport, is bounded by the Jurassic Heritage Coast to the south, whilst the Wealden Greensand encloses it to the north and west. This is Broadchurch country, with West Bay at the area's eastern boundary.
The area remains strongly rural in character, and much of it would still be recognisable to William Barnes and Thomas Hardy today, if they were somehow transported through time. Medieval field patterns predominate, and much vernacular architecture can be seen in the region, with Ham Hill stone featuring prominently as a building material.
Vales imply hills, and the West Dorset Vales contain an impressive array of hill forts including Eggardon Hill, Pilsdon Pen and Coney's Castle. Colmer's Hill (illustrated), with its clump of Scots Pine on top, is a well-known landmark locally.
Historically, the West Dorset Vales are important as the cradle of British paleontology, with many important fossil finds. It also contains Whitchurch Canonicorum, a rare example of a shrine to a pre-reformation saint, Saint Wite, whose relics survived destruction by Oliver's Army. It is believed that this is because its rural isolation meant that the Roundheads couldn't find it!