Wessex Attractions: Old Sarum

Old Sarum is an iron age hill fort, dating back to c400 BC, that was the original site of what later became Salisbury. It was continuously occupied during the Roman period and a mint was recorded there in 1003. Its original cathedral was built shortly after the Norman invasion of England, as was a motte-and-bailey castle. It was at the latter that the Bastard gathered his nobles in 1086 to swear the Oath of Sarum, a loyalty oath which centralised power in his hands that had previously been delegated to local reeves.

According to legend, the site of the cathedral was moved in 1220 to another one two miles away after an archer shot an arrow into the valley to determine where it should be built. Two miles seems a long way to shoot an arrow, but one variation of the legend is that the archer hit a deer which then ran for that distance before finally expiring.

The Norman castle remained in use until the 15th century, after which Old Sarum was largely abandoned in favour of the newer town. It continued to send members to Parliament until the Reform Act of 1832, however, one of two so-called “rotten boroughs” in Wessex (the other being Newtown on the Isle of Wight).

Today, Old Sarum is maintained by English Heritage. Advance booking is recommended, via their website.

Review: Thames – Sacred River

This review originally appeared in the Wessex Chronicle volume 14, issue 4 (Winter 2013-4)

Thames – Sacred River by Peter Ackroyd. Vintage Books, 2008, ISBN 978-0099422556

This book is a companion piece of sorts to Ackroyd’s 2001 biography” of London, and was subsequently turned into a TV series. Ackroyd is a Londoner with a deep-rooted love of his city, and so you might expect him to write as though the source of the Thames lies at Teddington Lock, but nothing could be further from the truth. He provides an overview of the entire length of the river “from source to sea”, frequently echoing Thomas Hardy’s dichotomy between Wessex (in the form of the clear waters of the Upper Thames) as representing purity and simplicity, while London acts as a metaphor for pollution, both physical and moral. I am drawing a discreet veil over Buckinghamshire and Surrey, as they mess up the analogy somewhat! The name Isis, which these days is rarely used to denote anything other than the Thames in Oxford, once referred to the river anywhere above Dorchester-on-Thames. Perhaps Wessex Society could attempt to reclaim the original usage, as the contrast between the pure water of the Isis in Wessex and the filthy open sewer that flows through London could serve as a vivid reminder of that which we seek to preserve (the Thames in London may be cleaner now that at any point in its recorded history, but tonnes of raw sewage are still regularly discharged into it during periods of flooding). Possibly those of a pagan bent could also read something into the fact that the Isis is feminine, named after a goddess, while the Thames is commonly referred to as masculine (one of only two masculine rivers in England, according to Ackroyd, the other being the fast-flowing, aggressive Derwent). Though perhaps one should be careful when talking about “Isis defiled”, as such language could very easily get a bit rapey.

The book is divided into 45 chapters, organised somewhat haphazardly into 15 sections, each dealing with a different aspect of the river. Some of these chapters come across as little more than laundry lists, but all of them contain at least one nugget of fascinating information, and most of them contain many more. The bulk of the book is ordered thematically rather than topographically, but there is a section at the end tracing the course of the river from its source in Gloucestershire to the Isle of Sheppey, after which it empties into the North Sea.

It is impossible to do justice to the scope of this book in such a short review, and it would be hard to imagine anything connected to the river that Ackroyd doesn’t cover in its pages. While not specifically a book about Wessex, it has much to say to Wessex Society members in their quest to articulate an identity for the region, or at least its northern half. For this reason, I heartily recommend it.

Essential Wessex: Wessex and Brittany

Links between Wessex and Brittany go back at least as far as the post-Roman period. The Bretons are thought to be the descendants of Brythonic-speaking emigrants from the kingdom of Dumnonia, covering modern-day Kernow and parts of western Wessex. One of its provinces was named Domnonea, after the British kingdom, though there was a separate province named Kernev, indicating a distinction between Devon and Kernow even then. Further evidence points to a possible second emigration of Britons as the western border of Wessex moved from the Parrett to the Tamar. Athelstan expelled the Britons from Exeter in 928, though the area where they had previously lived continued to be referred to as the “British Quarter” until as late as the 17th century. Until recently, the main bus station in Plymouth was known as Bretonside, a name retained for the new mixed-use development being built on its former site. There is also a Briton (originally Breton) Street in Southampton.

In the 16th century, serge cloth was exported to Brittany from Exeter in exchange for Breton linen, while during the 17th and 18th centuries, there was a thriving trade in Breton sea salt through many Wessex ports.

Today, ferries sail to Brittany from Plymouth, Weymouth and Portsmouth, while Eastern Airways flies between Southampton and Nantes.

Team Wessex

The main event, the Cotswold Olimpicks, may have been cancelled this year, but fortunately there was another little contest held in Tokyo to compensate. Congratulations to our Wessex-based Olympic medallists, as listed below. Names in italics appear in more than one category. Interestingly. our multiple medal-winners are all called Tom!

Gold

Laura Collett (Cheltenham) – Equestrian eventing team

Tom Daley (Plymouth) – Men’s synchronised 10m platform

Tom Dean (Maidenhead) – Men’s 200m freestyle and Men’s 4*200m freestyle relay

Tom McEwen (Cheltenham) – Equestrian eventing team

Eilidh McIntyre (Winchester) – Sailing women’s two-person dinghy

Silver

Jack Beaumont (Maidenhead) – Men’s quadruple sculls, rowing

Mallory Franklin (Windsor) – Women’s canoe slalom

Tom McEwen (Cheltenham) – Equestrian eventing individual

Bronze

Giselle Ansley (Kingsbridge) – Women’s hockey

Declan Brooks (Portsmouth) – Men’s park BMX

Tom Daley (Plymouth) – Men’s 10m platform diving

Jacob Dawson (Plymouth) – Men’s eight rowing

Charlie Elwes (Newbury) – Men’s eight rowing

Tom George (Cheltenham) – Men’s eight rowing

Lily Owsley (Bristol) – Women’s hockey

Ellie Rayer (Maidenhead) – Women’s hockey

Essential Wessex: Gytha of Kyiv

Gytha was the daughter of Harold Godwinson and Edith Swan-neck. Through her marriage to Vladimir Monomach, she became a grand princess of Kievan Rus after her father’s death in 1066. Their oldest child, Msitislav, was the last grand prince of a united Kievan Rus, and was known in the Germanic-speaking world as Harald, after his grandfather.

Gytha was believed to have been a major influence on what we would nowadays call her husband’s public relations strategy. Historians have noted stylistic similarities between Vladimir’s writings and those of Alfred the Great. It is likely that these are due to his links to the the royal house of Wessex through Gytha.

Dating Gytha’s life is difficult due to discrepancies between different primary sources. As far as we can tell, she was born in either 1053 or 1061, and died in either 1098 or 1107, depending on which source you believe. She is buried in St Sophia’s cathedral in Kyiv, modern-day Ukraine.

Gytha was the ancestor of Philippa of Hainault, queen of Edward III, and therefore of all subsequent English and British monarchs. She was also an ancestor of Ivan the Terrible, establishing the links between British and Russian royalty that persisted until the Russian revolution.