Wessex Attractions: Athelstan Museum

The Athelstan Museum in Malmesbury is a small, volunteer-run museum next door to the town hall, named after King Athelstan, who was buried in Malmesbury. Its collection includes an original Turner painting, various Saxon and Roman coins, and examples of Malmesbury lace.

The museum is open from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm Tuesday to Saturday, and 11.30 am to 3.30 pm on Sunday, closed Monday. The nearest bus stop is Malmesbury Library, served by bus services 93, 93A, 278 and C62. The nearest railway station is Kemble, and the postcode is SN16 9BZ.

Wessex Worthies: Laurie Lee

Laurie Lee was born in 1914 near Stroud, but moved as a boy to the nearby village of Slad. This move forms the opening of his best-known work, Cider With Rosie, published in 1959, and a staple of high school English lessons ever since. Cider With Rosie was followed by two autobiographical sequels, As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning in 1969, and A Moment Of War in 1991.

Whilst he is chiefly remembered for his memoirs, his true passion was poetry. He published three volumes of poems, and in 1968, Samuel Barber composed a choral arrangement of the poem Twelfth Night.

Lee was politicised as a young man by an encounter with the Whiteway Colony, a community of Tolstoyan anarchists based near Slad. He later fought in the Spanish Civil War against Franco’s fascists, having learned a few words of Spanish from an Argentinian girl whose family had moved to Slad.

In later life, Lee and his wife moved back to Slad. Shortly before his death in 1997, he helped save the Woolpack pub, illustrated above, from closure. The pub is still open, serving real ales and ciders, and also acting as a village shop.

Lee is buried in the village churchyard. Shortly after his death, Cider With Rosie was made into a TV movie featuring archive recordings of his voice, and with a teleplay by his friend John Mortimer.

Wessex Attractions: The Cerne Abbas Giant

Debate has long raged over the age of the Rude Man of Cerne Abbas, Britain’s largest chalk figure. Was it prehistoric? Roman? Or was it an elaborate wind-up of Oliver Cromwell’s puritans? In 2020, the National Trust, which owns the site, sent a team of archaeologists to thoroughly examine the sediment on the hillside in order to provide a definitive answer. After a year-long survey, the team concluded that the chalk figure was probably late Saxon in origin. However, the earliest record of the giant dates back to 1694. The most likely explanation is that it was early medieval originally, but had become overgrown, and was rediscovered some time in the late 17th century.

According to some of the more fanciful medieval “histories”, the figure was a representation of a pagan deity named Helith, who was worshipped in the area, When St Augustine of Canterbury tried to convert the villagers of Cerne Abbas during his mission to the English, they mocked him and his missionaries by pinning fish tails to their backs, a parody of the Christian ΙΧΘΥΣ symbol. As punishment, God made them sprout fish tails for real.

During World War 2, the giant was allowed to become obscured again, to prevent it from being used as a landmark by Luftwaffe bombers. Since then, it has been re-chalked every decade or so, a process that requires some 17 tonnes of chalk each time, while sheep are allowed to graze on the hill, in order to keep the grass short.

The Wessex Ridgeway passes within a mile of the giant. and it is only a quarter of a mile from the village of Cerne Abbas. On weekdays, Damory Coaches bus service 216 between Dorchester and Sherborne stops at the viewing area. The postcode, for satnav purposes, is DT2 7AL.

The Character of Wessex: Oxford and the Upper Thames

The birthplace of Wessex is actually two character areas in one, with the Upper Thames Clay Vales completely enclosing the Midvale Ridge. The latter is a limestone ridge stretching from Swindon to just outside Aylesbury. It is a mostly rural area, drained by small streams that drain into the rivers Thames, Thame and Ock, though the expansion of Swindon and Oxford threatens this rural character.

Surrounding it are the Oxford Clay Vales, whose impermeable clay soils give rise to flood plains and wetlands, in contrast to the permeable limestone of the Midvale Ridge and the neighbouring Cotswolds. The land is largely unsuitable for crop growing, making it a classic “chalk and cheese” disparity.

It was in the area around Dorchester-on-Thames that the kingdom later known as Wessex began to form. The area boasts one of the densest concentration of Anglo-Saxon archaeological finds in England, and is the subject of an ongoing investigation by a team of archaeologists from the University of Oxford.

There has been an encouraging increase in woodland in the area, however, an invasive population of poplar trees is proving a threat to native tree species.

Climate change threatens an increase in flooding in the clay vales. As with so many other places.it is up to all of us to do our part in preventing this.

Review: Time’s Anvil by Richard Morris (Phoenix, 2013)

This review originally appeared in Wessex Chronicle volume 16, issue 3 (Autumn 2015)

In part, this book is the autobiography of an English archæologist.  In part, it’s a history of English archæology, in which yesterday’s certainties dissolve into today’s more sober reassessments, even as a cult of touchy-feely ignorance disparages the very idea of objective knowledge.  In part, it’s a meditation on the nature of time itself and how we perceive its passing.  As a whole, all three are woven together into 466 very readable pages.  

As we might expect, Wessex plays a big role.  For earlier generations of archæologists, Wessex was where prehistory mostly happened.  It’s a view now recognised as an overstatement, caused by the better survival of material remains on the chalk downlands, or more accurately of readily visible material remains not masked by vegetation.

Morris points out the dangers of situational bias: “The idea that Wessex was an early settled cultural core rested on a belief that its free-draining soils and semi-open chalkland were attractive to ill-equipped early farmers.  To a degree it also reflected the whereabouts of the archæologists themselves.”  Yet he also acknowledges the advantages that geographical context can bring.  Why was Wessex, a region not rich in natural resources, at certain times so affluent and politically pre-eminent?  One answer is that Wessex lay at the heart of a network of wealth-bringing connections: south to northern France and Brittany, west to Wales and southern Ireland, north to the Irish Sea and the Western Isles.  Prehistoric Britain’s trade routes were not just the trackways but also the rivers and it oscillated between favouring those of the Atlantic arc and those of the North Sea rim.  Subsequent centuries were no different: hence the rise and fall of Winchester as a political rival to London in the Anglo-Saxon period (and of Southampton as London’s maritime rival in the later middle ages). The most sensitively treated themes in the book concern not material remains at all but cultural ones, the archæology of the intangible essential to proper interpretation of things found.  For Morris, the great break in history comes not with the Romans leaving or the Normans arriving but with the Reformation.  He demonstrates the continuity of locally sacred sites and landscapes back into the prehistoric, a continuity shattered with the stripping of the altars and the triumph of a standard, printed religion.  “This attack on the cult of the dead was ‘an act of exorcism, to limit the claims of the past, and the people of the past, on the people of the present’.  And as the exorcism took effect, the study of time through antiquities and historical topography began to accelerate.”  Traditions like morris dancing – in which Morris naturally takes an interest – are fragments of that lost world.  It survives too in the works of playwrights and poets and Morris intersperses his prose with verses that serve to illustrate a point.  His career has made him acutely aware that archæology is about observation, that what you see is what you expect to see, and that theories influence “facts” as much as the other way round.  His approach to the subject, as critical of perceptions as of evidence, is as thought-provoking as it is scholarly