Essential Wessex: The Age of Arthur

Arthurian legend is not unique to Wessex, of course. Scotland, Wales, Cornwall and Cumbria all have sites strongly associated with Arthur. However, Thomas Malory explicitly identified Camelot with Winchester, while a fortuitous “discovery” of Arthur’s tomb by the monks of Glastonbury Abbey brought pilgrims (and their money) to the supposed site of his burial.

In a way, this is ironic, as Arthur, if he existed, almost certainly fought to prevent Wessex – that is, the kingdom of the West Saxons – from ever being created. Historians will probably debate forever whether Arthur was a real person, an amalgamation of several people, or an entirely fictional character. Whichever is the case, he would have fought on the side of the native Romano-Britons against the incoming Saxons.

The earliest source for the figure of Arthur is Gildas’s The Ruin of Britain. This does not mention Arthur by name, but does talk about a figure called “the bear”, Arcturus in Latin. The later Arthurian tradition dates back to Geoffrey of Monmouth, writing in the 12th century.

Since then, Arthur has been subject to a number of reinterpretations, from the Victorian romanticism of Tennyson to the grimy realism of HTV’s Arthur of the Britons. Real or not, he is an infinitely fascinating and adaptable character.

Wessex Attractions: Arlington Court

Arlington Court is a Georgian manor house in Devon, built on the site of an old Tudor hunting lodge. It was the seat of the Chichester family from 1790 to 1949, when it passed to the National Trust upon the death of Rosalie Chichester (born 1865), Today, the house and its gardens are a popular Exmoor tourist attraction, and it is also home to the National Trust Carriage Museum.

The house contains an extensive art collection, including an original pen and ink drawing by William Blake. Two species of native bat roost in the cellars, and the building also has a tea room and second-hand bookshop.

The gardens feature over 20 miles of footpaths to explore. Exmoor’s famous red deer inhabit the surrounding woodland, and there is also a Victorian pleasure garden. The rhododendrons that previously grew there had to be removed due to an outbreak of phytopthora, and were replaced by native plants.

The house’s large stable block meant that it was chosen to house the National Trust Carriage Museum, with its collection of over 40 horse-drawn carriages from across the country, ranging from simple carts to luxurious state coaches, as well as other items such as hunting horns and whips.

Arlington Court is served by buses from Barnstaple (the nearest rail station) to Lynton. The postcode is EX31 4LP, and the what3words is ///gloves.flood.bloodshot

Essential Wessex: The Battle of Hingston Down

The Battle of Hingston Down in 838 was a decisive victory by a West Saxon army led by King Ecgberht against a combined force of Britons and Danes. It appears to have marked the final West Saxon conquest of Devon, and the end of a century of warfare with the Britons of Dumnonia (Devon and Cornwall).

There is some debate about the location of the battle. Most historians believe that it happened at Hingston Down near Callington in Cornwall, but there is another Hingston Down near Moretonhampstead in Devon which could also plausibly have been the site.

The result of the battle probably ensured that Dumnonia was reduced to just Cornwall, which became a client kingdom of Wessex, whilst retaining some degree of autonomy. Further kings of Cornwall are recorded later in the 9th century, and possibly into the 10th, though again, the evidence is inconclusive.

It would be another 90 years before King Athelstan would finally fix the boundary between Wessex and Cornwall at the River Tamar. Even now, the majority of the English place names in Cornwall are found in the east of the Duchy, between the Tamar and the River Lynher, a couple of miles to the west.

Wessex In Fiction: Lady In Waiting

Lady In Waiting is one of five novels for adults written by the renowned children’s historical author Rosemary Sutcliff. It tells the life story of Sir Walter Raleigh through the eyes of his wife, Bess Throckmorton, a lady in waiting to Queen Elizabeth I.

The novel, first published in 1957, spans the reigns of both Elizabeth I and King James VI and I. The latter is portrayed as a period of decline from the Elizabethan golden age. The title has a double meaning, referring both to Throckmorton’s official title and to her condition of constantly waiting for her husband to return, due to his long periods at sea.

The book is currently out of print, though second-hand copies are readily and cheaply available from the usual outlets.

Wessex Attractions: Cadbury Camp

Cadbury Camp (not to be confused with Cadbury Castle or Cadbury-Congresbury) is an Iron Age hillfort located near Tickenham in north Somerset. From this vantage point, its original inhabitants would have been able to see across the Mendips and towards the Bristol Channel, giving ample warning of any potential attackers, human or animal. During World War 2, it was used as a searchlight battery, to spot enemy aircraft heading for Bristol.

There is evidence that the site has been occupied since the 6th century BC, though the name is Saxon in origin. The ridge it sits on is man-made, not natural. Archaeological finds at the site include a bronze spearhead, which is now located in the Museum of Somerset in Taunton, and a Roman altar stone depicting the god Mars.

The site once formed part of the extensive Clevedon Estate, but is now managed by the National Trust in partnership with Natural England. The latter helps maintain it as an important habitat for nature, including buzzards, harebells, greater butterfly orchids, wild thyme, six-spotted burnet moths and silver fritillary butterflies. They have also helped remove an invasive population of Turkey oaks (a species normally native to southeastern Europe and western Asia), which had provided a home to damaging gall wasps.

Cadbury Camp can be accessed via a steep footpath from the B3130 at Tickenham. The path is not recommended for those with mobility problems. Bristol to Clevedon bus routes X7 and 364 stop nearby. It is 2 miles from Nailsea & Backwell railway station, and close to National Cycle Network route 41. The satnav postcode is BS20 7SF, and the what3words is really.worry.fire.